Browsing through the web and saw this and wondering what is it although it has posted up quite a long time ago but I guess it will make us LOL when we see this. Caution: watch with speaker volume low. You will know what I mean later. =). So check out the video.
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Subaru Impreza STI
Magnificent ride, Saw this ride when I'm having my breakfast @ Ara Damansara area and it just attract me so deeply. Subaru Impreza is always the car I always want to have one but this is totally different from the Subaru Impreza which is a sedan version I always admire. This turns out to be Coupe version, but the looks is not bad and it's still a Subaru equipped with Boxer Engine where its their trademark.
Touge 峠
If only Malaysia would have such a touge mountains for people to explore and examine their car's ability. Below are 3 cars manufacture from nissan which the 1st is the Nissan 180SX aka fei kai, 2nd car is Nissan Silvia S15 and the 3rd is Nissan 200SX. These the shots where they go for a touge journey huh.
The meaning of Touge:
Tōge (峠) is a Japanese word literally meaning "pass." It refers to a mountain pass or any of the narrow, winding roads that can be found in and around the mountains of Japan and other geographically similar areas.
Placing a series of s or bends in the steep roads that provide access to and from the high elevations of the mountains was intended to be a safety measure, usually to prevent commuters from reaching unstable speeds or creating excessive wear on the vehicles associated with them. It is therefore ironic that these same passes have become popular with street racers and motorsport enthusiasts in the last two decades, providing a dangerous and therefore challenging course where nightly competitions are not unheard of.
There are 4 types of Touge battles:-
Cat and Mouse/Sudden Death
- The lead car wins if the space between the cars increases considerably, while the following car wins if they overtake the lead car. If any car spins out or crashes, the other one wins the race.
- This is typically a sudden death format in that, in the event of the following car keeping pace, the race is usually rerun with the positions swapped. Once again the new lead car must pull away from the pursuer significantly, or the follower must overtake, to win and prevent another run.
- This method is often used when the road area isn't wide enough to allow passing, but if the car in front does indeed somehow get passed, the overtaken car automatically loses.
Straight up
- If the road is wide enough, this method comes into use. Instead of the lead and chase type of start, the cars are lined up next to each other. If there is a handicap in power, a rolling start would be used up until the 1st turn. Whoever is in front at the end of the "touge" road, is the winner.
Random battle
- A challenge is communicated through the use of the hazard lights. Then according to the road, use of one of the 2 prior types of battle.
Time Attack or Ghost Battle
- A Challenge in which one car is timed from start to finish, and the opponent attempts to beat the other drivers time. The opponents do not actually race at the same time.
Misconceptions
- Stemming from this surge in popularity, the term has been pirated and misused by overzealous enthusiasts (often incorrectly as a verb) to erroneously describe almost any event involving street racing, even when there are no mountain passes involved.
- Another common mistake is the association of drifting with touge, implying at times that the words share a common definition. While drift is considered a style or form of driving, touge does not necessarily have any binding relationship to motorsports. Drifting can be used on the touge to prevent the chaser from following their proper line. For example if there was a chaser and one were to drift the drifter has now eliminated about 60 percent of the chaser's possible lines forcing them to choose slower lines that can be predicted. Also in doing this one can cause the chaser to slow down in order not to crash into the drifting car in front, which might cause complications due to keeping rpm's high and traction and all other variables to consider in slowing down for a corner.
- Touge in Time Trial format could be said to be a subset of Tarmac Rally. With the Rallye Monte Carlo and Tour de Corse demonstrating the parallel, separated only by cultural heritage.
The meaning of Touge:
Tōge (峠) is a Japanese word literally meaning "pass." It refers to a mountain pass or any of the narrow, winding roads that can be found in and around the mountains of Japan and other geographically similar areas.
Placing a series of s or bends in the steep roads that provide access to and from the high elevations of the mountains was intended to be a safety measure, usually to prevent commuters from reaching unstable speeds or creating excessive wear on the vehicles associated with them. It is therefore ironic that these same passes have become popular with street racers and motorsport enthusiasts in the last two decades, providing a dangerous and therefore challenging course where nightly competitions are not unheard of.
There are 4 types of Touge battles:-
Cat and Mouse/Sudden Death
- The lead car wins if the space between the cars increases considerably, while the following car wins if they overtake the lead car. If any car spins out or crashes, the other one wins the race.
- This is typically a sudden death format in that, in the event of the following car keeping pace, the race is usually rerun with the positions swapped. Once again the new lead car must pull away from the pursuer significantly, or the follower must overtake, to win and prevent another run.
- This method is often used when the road area isn't wide enough to allow passing, but if the car in front does indeed somehow get passed, the overtaken car automatically loses.
Straight up
- If the road is wide enough, this method comes into use. Instead of the lead and chase type of start, the cars are lined up next to each other. If there is a handicap in power, a rolling start would be used up until the 1st turn. Whoever is in front at the end of the "touge" road, is the winner.
Random battle
- A challenge is communicated through the use of the hazard lights. Then according to the road, use of one of the 2 prior types of battle.
Time Attack or Ghost Battle
- A Challenge in which one car is timed from start to finish, and the opponent attempts to beat the other drivers time. The opponents do not actually race at the same time.
Misconceptions- Stemming from this surge in popularity, the term has been pirated and misused by overzealous enthusiasts (often incorrectly as a verb) to erroneously describe almost any event involving street racing, even when there are no mountain passes involved.
- Another common mistake is the association of drifting with touge, implying at times that the words share a common definition. While drift is considered a style or form of driving, touge does not necessarily have any binding relationship to motorsports. Drifting can be used on the touge to prevent the chaser from following their proper line. For example if there was a chaser and one were to drift the drifter has now eliminated about 60 percent of the chaser's possible lines forcing them to choose slower lines that can be predicted. Also in doing this one can cause the chaser to slow down in order not to crash into the drifting car in front, which might cause complications due to keeping rpm's high and traction and all other variables to consider in slowing down for a corner.
- Touge in Time Trial format could be said to be a subset of Tarmac Rally. With the Rallye Monte Carlo and Tour de Corse demonstrating the parallel, separated only by cultural heritage.
Racing Babes!
Featuring Racing Babes! Below are some pictures where I taken from the internet to share with the automotive enthusiast out there. Feel free to check it out. Sometimes we do need some time to relax and check out the babes and not the car huh. Too much adrenalin on cars will make a person 'goyang'. So sit back and enjoy the pics ya.
Bikini Car Wash Babes
Superbike Babe
Japan GT Babe
Bikini Car Wash Babes
Superbike Babe
Japan GT Babe
Perodua Alza Advanced Version
Source by: http://paultan.org/2009/11/24/perodua-alza-advanced-version-extra-equipment/
The highest specification level of the Perodua Alza is actually a model called the Perodua Alza Advanced Version, which is basically based on the Alza 1.5 Automatic Premium and Manual Premium but with a few additional specifications. You can book this now but delivery will only start in March 2010.
You basically get a new bodykit which consists of front, rear and side skirts and a different rear spoiler. On the inside, you get leather seat covers for all the seats, but the leather treatment does not continue onto the door trim. Also provided is a 5 inch touchscreen LCD which has a Windows CE-based GPS navigation system with a SiRF Atlas IV chipset and 500MHz CPU. The LCD also displays a feed from a 150 degree lense reverse camera.
Finally, there is tinted film for all the glass in the Alza which Perodua claims is GPS and SmartTAG friendly. Perodua states the specifications as following: 95% IR rejection, 99% UV rejection, 70% light for the front windscreen and about over 50% light for the rest of the glass. This tint has a 5 year warranty against peeling, oxidisation, cracking, discoloration and fading. I assume that as an OEM option this tint is also JPJ-approved.
The Alza Advanced Version manual goes for RM66,490 for solid and RM66,990 for metallic, while the Alza Advanced Version automatic goes for RM69,490 for solid and RM69,990 for metallic. The S. Metallic option is missing because the Alza Advanced Version only comes in three colours – Ivory White, Ebony Black and Classy Purple, while the only special metallic colour is Pearl White.
The Interior of the Front side
The Interior of the passenger Sit
Comparing between manufacturer
The highest specification level of the Perodua Alza is actually a model called the Perodua Alza Advanced Version, which is basically based on the Alza 1.5 Automatic Premium and Manual Premium but with a few additional specifications. You can book this now but delivery will only start in March 2010.
You basically get a new bodykit which consists of front, rear and side skirts and a different rear spoiler. On the inside, you get leather seat covers for all the seats, but the leather treatment does not continue onto the door trim. Also provided is a 5 inch touchscreen LCD which has a Windows CE-based GPS navigation system with a SiRF Atlas IV chipset and 500MHz CPU. The LCD also displays a feed from a 150 degree lense reverse camera. 
Finally, there is tinted film for all the glass in the Alza which Perodua claims is GPS and SmartTAG friendly. Perodua states the specifications as following: 95% IR rejection, 99% UV rejection, 70% light for the front windscreen and about over 50% light for the rest of the glass. This tint has a 5 year warranty against peeling, oxidisation, cracking, discoloration and fading. I assume that as an OEM option this tint is also JPJ-approved.
The Alza Advanced Version manual goes for RM66,490 for solid and RM66,990 for metallic, while the Alza Advanced Version automatic goes for RM69,490 for solid and RM69,990 for metallic. The S. Metallic option is missing because the Alza Advanced Version only comes in three colours – Ivory White, Ebony Black and Classy Purple, while the only special metallic colour is Pearl White.
The Interior of the Front side
The Interior of the passenger SitComparing between manufacturer
2011 BMW 5 Series
Following an earlier image leak, BMW has officially taken the wraps off the all-new 2011 5-Series Sedan. The 2011 model marks the sixth-generation of the venerable sports sedan. The 2011 BMW 5-Series Sedan will make its public debut at next month’s LA Show.
Developed under the codename “F10,” the 2011 BMW 5-Series softens the harder lines of the current E60 with more conventional-looking headlights and a cleaner front-end design. New European pedestrian safety standards are expected to drastically alter the design of many European cars for the worse, but BMW has managed to maintain its classic twin-kidney grille design with the new 5-Series while simultaneously reducing the length of the front overhang.
As is typical of most recent BMW redesigns, this 5-Series adds some space between the wheels by extending the wheelbase nearly 10 centimeters and widening the track. The car’s overall length has grown by less than 2 centimeters, while its height is slightly reduced and its width increased by a fraction. A set of 17-inch wheels are the smallest available with 18- and 19-inch wheels optional.
From launch the 2011 5-Series will offer one eight-cylinder and three six-cylinder gas engine options. Two diesel six-cylinder models will also be available.
The range-topping 550i model comes packing a 407 horsepower version of BMW’s turbocharged V8. As expected, BMW’s 306 horsepower turbocharged inline-six will be available in the 535i model. A 530d model is also be available — featuring a 245 horsepower diesel engine — should BMW decide to bring it to the U.S. The 258 horsepower 528i will be the entry-level model in the U.S.Additionally, BMW will launch two four-cylinder diesel 5-Series models in Europe, with the most fuel efficient version being the 47 mpg (U.S.) 520d.
The next-generation 5-Series features an eight-speed automatic transmission with an all-wheel drive optional. The new 5 will also have Park Distance Control and an around view monitor system, similar to Infiniti’s Around View Monitor
Category:
BMW 550i
- V8 petrol engine with TwinPower Turbo and High Precision Injection
- Capacity: 4,395 cc, max output: 300 kW from 5,500 – 6,400 rpm
- Max torque: 600 Nm/442 lb-ft from 1,750 – 4,500 rpm
- Acceleration: 0 – 100 km/h in 5.0 seconds
- Top speed: 250 km/h
- Average fuel consumption to the EU standard:
- 10.4 ltr/100 km
- CO2 emissions to the EU standard: 243 g/km,
- full compliance with the EU5 emission standard.
BMW 535i
- Straight-six petrol engine with TwinPower Turbo,
- High Precision Injection and VALVETRONIC
- Capacity: 2,979 cc, max output: 225 kW at 5,800 rpm
- Max torque: 400 Nm from 1,200 – 5,000 rpm
- Acceleration: 0 – 100 km/h in 6.1 seconds
- Top speed: 250 km/h
- Average fuel consumption to the EU standard:
- 8.4 ltr/100 km
- CO2 emissions to the EU standard: 195 g/km
- full compliance with the EU5 emission standard.
BMW 528i
- Straight-six petrol engine with bi-VANOS and VALVETRONIC
- Capacity: 2,996 cc, max output: 190 kW at 6,600 rpm
- Max torque: 300 Nm from 2,600 – 5,000 rpm
- Acceleration: 0 – 100 km/h in 6.7 seconds
- Top speed: 250 km/h
- Average fuel consumption to the EU standard:
- 7.6 ltr/100 km,
- CO2 emissions to the EU standard: 178 g/km,
- full compliance with the EU5 emission standard.
BMW 523i
- Straight-six petrol engine with bi-VANOS and VALVETRONIC
- Capacity: 2,996 cc, max output: 150 kW at 6,100 rpm
- Max torque: 270 Nm from 1,500 – 4,250 rpm Acceleration: 0 – 100 km/h in 7.9 seconds Top speed: 234 km/h
- Average fuel consumption to the EU standard:
- 7.6 ltr/100 km
- CO2 emissions to the EU standard: 177 g/km,
- full compliance with the EU5 emission standard.
BMW 530d
- Straight-six diesel with aluminium crankcase,
- turbocharger with variable turbine geometry and common-rail direct fuel injection (piezo-injectors, max injection pressure 1,800 bar)
- Capacity: 2, 993 cc, max output: 180 kW at 4,000 rpm Max torque: 540 Nm from 1,750 – 3,000 rpm
- cceleration: 0 – 100 km/h in 6.3 seconds Top speed: 250 km/h
- verage fuel consumption to the EU standard: 6.2 ltr/100 km
- O2 emissions to the EU standard:
- 162 g/km,
- full compliance with the EU5 emission standard.
BMW 520d
- Straight-four diesel with aluminium crankcase, turbocharger with variable turbine geometry and common-rail direct fuel injection
- (magnetic valve injectors, max injection pressure 1,800 bar)
- Capacity: 1,995 cc, max output: 135 kW at 4,000 rpm Max torque: 380 Nm from 1,900 – 2, 750 rpm
- Acceleration: 0-100 km/h in 8.1 seconds (provisional),
- Top speed: 225 km/h (provisional)
- Average fuel consumption to the EU standard: 5.2 ltr/100 km
- CO2 emissions to the EU standard: 137 g/km (provisional),
- full compliance with the EU5 emission standard.
Sound Proof-ing your Ride
Source by: http://kereta.info/how-to-sound-proof-your-car-noise-blocking-tips-and-materials/
SOUND PROOFING MAT
Solid Quietness Makes Driving A Pleasure
Feeling irritated while driving due to the excessive noise from the road? Unsatisfied with the bass produce by your speaker? Feeling unsecured with noise coming in from the thin metal body of your car?
All of this could come to an end with this Sound Proofing Mat.
Benefits of Sound proofing
• Reduce excessive noise created by the road from the car tyres.
• Reduce significantly on exhaust sound when stick on the correct area.
• Increase solidness of the car body such as doors, bonnet and other parts of the car.
• Increase the production of bass from your car speaker.
• Reduce vibration of door panels if correct installation had been done to the doors.
Installation guide:
• Clean the surface of the area that is intended to be sound proof.
• Measure the length of area that is intended to stick and cut it.
• Remove the paper and stick it accordingly to your preference (just like double sided tape)
• Use a cloth or a flat roller to press the mat on to the surface that has been stick.
• Pack your stuff to feel the differences
Important:
• Ensure that the surface of installation to be done are free from oil, grease, dirt & others in order to obtain good adhesiveness.
HOW TO SOUND PROOF YOUR CAR? SOUND BLOCKING TIPS AND MATERIALS
Types of Sound Insulation / Sound Proof
Sound insulation for cars comes in three basic forms:
Bonnet insulators
– these comprise foam rubber backed on one side by a woven cloth (or aluminised polyester) and on the other with pressure adhesive. As the name suggests, they’re suitable for mounting under bonnets and also under bootlids.
Noise barriers– these materials use compressed layers of cotton-waste (or similar) sandwiching a thin layer of bitumen. They’re used both to absorb noise and also to prevent noise transmission. They can be mounted on the firewall within the cabin (ie under the carpet), under the boot carpet and behind the rear seat in booted sedans. This noise insulation is held in place with applied contact adhesive.
Anti-vibration materials– these insulators comprise low resonance (acoustically ‘dead’) materials which are designed to stop panel vibration. In use they’re glued to the panels. It is important that the join between the insulator and the panel is continuous, with large amounts of contact adhesive therefore needed.
What is Sound Proofing? How Can I do It In With My Car?
Sound Proofing starts with some means of damping. A number of products are available for this, and they all have various degrees of effectiveness. The best results are always obtained from using a combination of these products. There are mats, sprays, foams, and insulation available from a number of manufacturers
- Mats are usually either Styrene-Butyadine-Rubber or asphaltic sheets backed with an adhesive of some type (although other materials are used in some cases). Installing mats in your vehicle is a simple way to reduce vibration, and is effective as well. The way mats work is that they are used to cover panels. The material they are made of absorbs vibrations in the panels, and turns them into heat, or it may simply lower the resonant frequency of the panel. Mats can also be placed between panels to reduce the amount of vibration between the two panels when they are in close contact. Many times, the mats will also have a metal foil backing to improve the heat resistance of the matting (thus allowing you to use it in an engine compartment). The matting also adds weight to a panel, reducing it’s tendency to vibrate in the first place. Some of the more popular mats are Dynamat and Road Kill, but there are alternatives.
- Sprays are also used for damping. These sprays normally come in a professional can, which require a compressor and paintgun to apply, but many companies are starting to market aerosol cans of sound deadener spray. The spray is often used in places where matting would either be too difficult, or would add too much weight/bulk. Door panels are the most common application for sprays, as well as highly irregular crevices (like inside kickpanels). Sprays are suitable for large panels as well, but they tend to be messy, and require taping/masking off of upholstery and windows.
- Foams come in two forms: Sheets of foam, and foam sprays. The sheets of foam are used much like mats are; They are laid over panels to reduce and absorb vibration. Unlike mats, which absorb the vibration and convert it to heat energy, foam sheets disperse the vibrations throughout, reducing its total energy. Foam sprays are used to fill in crevices. As they dry (or rather, cure), they expand slightly, pressing against the nearby panels. The individual cells help to disperse energy away from the vibrating panel, and absorb them. Foams can be expensive as well, and there is a low cost alternative here, as well. The first is Styrofoam©, which can be obtained in a spray can. Styrofoam© is the brand name for the polystyrene foam we are all familiar with (and somewhat annoyed by at times). The fumes given off by Styrofoam© are noxious, and many communities have laws banning its use due to environmental concerns. Another alternative is insulating foams like Great Stuff©, which is used in home construction. Great Stuff© is cheap, fireproof when cured, and readily available at any hardware store for about three dollars a can. Great Stuff© is also shapeable when it cures, and can be used to smooth sharp corners. The downside to Great Stuff©, like Ice Guard, is that it is messy. Once Great Stuff© is sprayed on upholstery, your clothes, your skin, etc, it’s all over. You hands will be stiff and sticky for days, if not weeks, and your clothes are forever ruined. Great Stuff© also expands voraciously, so spray it carefully.
- Finally, there is insulation. Jute is the most common insulation. It is laid under carpets in both cars and houses, and is basically a thick mat of fibers which absorb sound. Though less effective than the other methods, it adds a plushness to carpets, and has very good thermal insulation. Micro Jute is recommended, because it’s much thinner than jute, and has about the same level of effectiveness. Jute or Micro Jute can be gotten from a number of manufacturers, and is available at any carpet supply store.
Alternative area / Budget Area:
DIY NOISE BLOCKING TIPS IN MALAYSIA
First of all sponge is not gonna work. If you want to DIY super cheap, get the Insuflex from KHGuan (I think RM15+ a large sheet) and cable tie the thing (or glue it). If you want a medium alternative go to KFAudio and ask them to use Sikadamp (RM30 a piece) or go to Soundblok and ask them to quote on their stuff. If you want ultimate dampening get Dynamat Extreme which sells from RM60 to RM100 a piece and front doors only required 3 pieces to cover (meaning approx 6 to 7 pieces for 4 doors).
Otherwise mix and match. Doors use Dynamat, floor use soundblok, roof use Insuflex, bonnet use Insuflex, Boot use Dynamat. As for rust, there’s no guarantee on the glue whether it’ll rust or not. But Dynamat, Sikadamp, soundblok and many of those bitumen-based-stick-on stuff don’t cause rust. Insuflex is just a spongy type of material and needs to have something to keep it there. That audiotech fischer stuff is good stuff too. But obviously for that price you have many other options. The most important difference is that paste is not removable. Dynamat extreme and Sika and all are removable.
Links:
Dynamat Official website:
SOUND PROOFING MAT Solid Quietness Makes Driving A Pleasure
Feeling irritated while driving due to the excessive noise from the road? Unsatisfied with the bass produce by your speaker? Feeling unsecured with noise coming in from the thin metal body of your car?
All of this could come to an end with this Sound Proofing Mat.
Benefits of Sound proofing
• Reduce excessive noise created by the road from the car tyres.
• Reduce significantly on exhaust sound when stick on the correct area.
• Increase solidness of the car body such as doors, bonnet and other parts of the car.
• Increase the production of bass from your car speaker.
• Reduce vibration of door panels if correct installation had been done to the doors.
Installation guide:
• Clean the surface of the area that is intended to be sound proof.
• Measure the length of area that is intended to stick and cut it.
• Remove the paper and stick it accordingly to your preference (just like double sided tape)
• Use a cloth or a flat roller to press the mat on to the surface that has been stick.
• Pack your stuff to feel the differences
Important:
• Ensure that the surface of installation to be done are free from oil, grease, dirt & others in order to obtain good adhesiveness.
HOW TO SOUND PROOF YOUR CAR? SOUND BLOCKING TIPS AND MATERIALS
Types of Sound Insulation / Sound Proof
Sound insulation for cars comes in three basic forms:
Bonnet insulators– these comprise foam rubber backed on one side by a woven cloth (or aluminised polyester) and on the other with pressure adhesive. As the name suggests, they’re suitable for mounting under bonnets and also under bootlids.
Noise barriers– these materials use compressed layers of cotton-waste (or similar) sandwiching a thin layer of bitumen. They’re used both to absorb noise and also to prevent noise transmission. They can be mounted on the firewall within the cabin (ie under the carpet), under the boot carpet and behind the rear seat in booted sedans. This noise insulation is held in place with applied contact adhesive.
Anti-vibration materials– these insulators comprise low resonance (acoustically ‘dead’) materials which are designed to stop panel vibration. In use they’re glued to the panels. It is important that the join between the insulator and the panel is continuous, with large amounts of contact adhesive therefore needed.
What is Sound Proofing? How Can I do It In With My Car?
Sound Proofing starts with some means of damping. A number of products are available for this, and they all have various degrees of effectiveness. The best results are always obtained from using a combination of these products. There are mats, sprays, foams, and insulation available from a number of manufacturers
- Mats are usually either Styrene-Butyadine-Rubber or asphaltic sheets backed with an adhesive of some type (although other materials are used in some cases). Installing mats in your vehicle is a simple way to reduce vibration, and is effective as well. The way mats work is that they are used to cover panels. The material they are made of absorbs vibrations in the panels, and turns them into heat, or it may simply lower the resonant frequency of the panel. Mats can also be placed between panels to reduce the amount of vibration between the two panels when they are in close contact. Many times, the mats will also have a metal foil backing to improve the heat resistance of the matting (thus allowing you to use it in an engine compartment). The matting also adds weight to a panel, reducing it’s tendency to vibrate in the first place. Some of the more popular mats are Dynamat and Road Kill, but there are alternatives.
- Sprays are also used for damping. These sprays normally come in a professional can, which require a compressor and paintgun to apply, but many companies are starting to market aerosol cans of sound deadener spray. The spray is often used in places where matting would either be too difficult, or would add too much weight/bulk. Door panels are the most common application for sprays, as well as highly irregular crevices (like inside kickpanels). Sprays are suitable for large panels as well, but they tend to be messy, and require taping/masking off of upholstery and windows.
- Foams come in two forms: Sheets of foam, and foam sprays. The sheets of foam are used much like mats are; They are laid over panels to reduce and absorb vibration. Unlike mats, which absorb the vibration and convert it to heat energy, foam sheets disperse the vibrations throughout, reducing its total energy. Foam sprays are used to fill in crevices. As they dry (or rather, cure), they expand slightly, pressing against the nearby panels. The individual cells help to disperse energy away from the vibrating panel, and absorb them. Foams can be expensive as well, and there is a low cost alternative here, as well. The first is Styrofoam©, which can be obtained in a spray can. Styrofoam© is the brand name for the polystyrene foam we are all familiar with (and somewhat annoyed by at times). The fumes given off by Styrofoam© are noxious, and many communities have laws banning its use due to environmental concerns. Another alternative is insulating foams like Great Stuff©, which is used in home construction. Great Stuff© is cheap, fireproof when cured, and readily available at any hardware store for about three dollars a can. Great Stuff© is also shapeable when it cures, and can be used to smooth sharp corners. The downside to Great Stuff©, like Ice Guard, is that it is messy. Once Great Stuff© is sprayed on upholstery, your clothes, your skin, etc, it’s all over. You hands will be stiff and sticky for days, if not weeks, and your clothes are forever ruined. Great Stuff© also expands voraciously, so spray it carefully.
- Finally, there is insulation. Jute is the most common insulation. It is laid under carpets in both cars and houses, and is basically a thick mat of fibers which absorb sound. Though less effective than the other methods, it adds a plushness to carpets, and has very good thermal insulation. Micro Jute is recommended, because it’s much thinner than jute, and has about the same level of effectiveness. Jute or Micro Jute can be gotten from a number of manufacturers, and is available at any carpet supply store.
Alternative area / Budget Area:
DIY NOISE BLOCKING TIPS IN MALAYSIA
First of all sponge is not gonna work. If you want to DIY super cheap, get the Insuflex from KHGuan (I think RM15+ a large sheet) and cable tie the thing (or glue it). If you want a medium alternative go to KFAudio and ask them to use Sikadamp (RM30 a piece) or go to Soundblok and ask them to quote on their stuff. If you want ultimate dampening get Dynamat Extreme which sells from RM60 to RM100 a piece and front doors only required 3 pieces to cover (meaning approx 6 to 7 pieces for 4 doors).
Otherwise mix and match. Doors use Dynamat, floor use soundblok, roof use Insuflex, bonnet use Insuflex, Boot use Dynamat. As for rust, there’s no guarantee on the glue whether it’ll rust or not. But Dynamat, Sikadamp, soundblok and many of those bitumen-based-stick-on stuff don’t cause rust. Insuflex is just a spongy type of material and needs to have something to keep it there. That audiotech fischer stuff is good stuff too. But obviously for that price you have many other options. The most important difference is that paste is not removable. Dynamat extreme and Sika and all are removable.
Links:
Dynamat Official website:
Rim Offset Information
OffsetThe offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types.
Zero Offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.
Positive
The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.
Negative
The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.
If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly. We have test fitted thousands of different vehicles for proper fitment. Our extensive database allows our sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle.The meaning of PCD? PCD stands for pitch circle diameter and is the diameter of a circle drawn through the centre of your wheel’s bolt holes. P.C.D. is measured in millimeters and also indicate the number of studs or bolts the wheel will have. Proton Alloy Wheels are usually either 4×100: i.e. 4 bolt holes drilled through the centre of an imaginary 100mm circle.
WHAT IS RIM OFFSET?- The offset, measured in millimeters, can be negative or positive, and is the distance from the hub-mounting surface to the rim’s true centerline. A positive offset means the hub-mounting surface is closer to the outside edge of the wheel, i.e. the wheel wraps around the hub and brake hardware more deeply; a negative offset means the hub-mounting surface is closer to the inside edge of the wheel and wheel sticks outwards more than inwards.
- Negative Offset wheels have their mounting face toward the rear of the wheel - powerful rear-wheel drive cars often have wheels with negative offset. This is the contributing factors of being a bigger “lips” rim.
- When selecting aftermarket wheels, a wheel with too little positive offset will be closer to the fender, and one with too much positive offset will be closer to the suspension components. Wheel width, offset and tire size all determine the way a particular wheel/tire combination will work on a given car.
- To maintain handling characteristics and avoid undue loads on bushings and ball joints, the car manufacturer’s original offset should be maintained when choosing new wheels unless there are overriding clearance issues.
- Offset also affects the scrub radius of the steering and it is advisable to stay within the limits allowed by the vehicle manufacturer. Because wheel offset changes the lever-arm length between the center of the tire and the centerline of the steering knuckle, the way bumps, road imperfections and acceleration and braking forces are translated to steering torques (bump-steer, torque-steer, etc) will change depending on wheel offset. Likewise, the wheel bearings will see increased thrust loads if the wheel centerline is moved away from the bearing centerline.
WHAT IS CENTERBORE?- The center bore of an alloy wheel is the size of the hole at the back of the wheel which the hub fits into. To help the wheels to seat properly this hole needs to be an exact match to the size of the hub. Please refer to the first picture above this articles.
- Some factory wheels have a centerbore that matches exactly with the hub to reduce vibration by keeping the wheel centered. Wheels with the correct centerbore to the car they will be mounted on are known as hubcentric. Hubcentric wheels take the stress off the lug nuts, reducing the job of the lug nuts to center the wheel to the car.
- Wheels that are not hubcentric are known as lugcentric, as the job of centering is done by the lug nuts assuming they are properly torqued down. Centerbore on aftermarket wheels must be equal to or greater than that of the hub or the wheel cannot be mounted on the car. Many aftermarket wheels come with “hubcentric rings” that lock or slide into the back of the wheel to adapt a wheel with a larger centerbore to a smaller hub. These adapters are usually made of plastic but also in aluminium.
Wheel Offset Calculator @ http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp
Toyota MR2 ( Second generation )
Second generation (MKII) SW20/SW21/SW22 (1990-1999)
SW20/SW21) 1994 MK-II Toyota MR2 SW20
Production: 1989-1999
Body style(s): 2-door coupé or T-top
Layout:MR layout
Engine(s):Toyota S engine
2.2L 130 hp (97 kW) I4 (US, UK)
2.0L 165 PS (121 kW; 163 hp) I4 (Japan, Australia, UK)
2.0L 180 PS (130 kW; 180 hp) I4 (Japan, Australia, UK)
2.0L 200 PS (150 kW; 200 hp) I4 (Japan)
2.0L 200 hp (150 kW) Turbocharged I4 (US)
2.0L 225 PS (165 kW; 222 hp) Turbocharged I4 (Japan)
2.0L 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp) Turbocharged I4 (Japan)
Transmission: 4-speed automatic, 5-speed S54 or E153 manual
Wheelbase: 94.5 in (2,400 mm)
Length 164.2 in (4,171 mm)
Width 66.9 in (1,699 mm)
Height 48.6 in (1,234 mm)
Curb weight 2,789 lb (1,265 kg)
Designer Kazutoshi Arima
Tadashi Nakagawa (roadster)
The second generation MR2 (MKII) went through a complete redesign in 1989; the wheelbase had been increased by 3.2 inches (81 mm), making it 94.5 inches, the overall length had been increased by 9.3 inches (240 mm), making it 164.2 inches (4,170 mm) and is 66.9 inches (1,700 mm) wide. The new MR2 weighed 350 to 400 pounds (160 to 180 kg) more than its predecessor and had smoother bodylines. It appeared very advanced for its era. Now that the MR2 was larger, it could be classed as a GT car. The 1990 model year MSRP ranged from approximately ¥1,953,330 (€13,896), ($14,368) to ¥2,522,960 (€17,882), ($18,558). Since the resemblance between the Ferrari 348tb and the Ferrari F355 and the new MR2 was quite striking, the MKII is sometimes referred to as a "poor man's" Ferrari. Indeed, many bodykits became available to make the MKII imitate the Ferrari F355 with, sometimes, almost indistinguishable results.
The MKII MR2 came to the Japanese (JDM) and European market at the end of 1989 as a 1990 model year. Japan received three trim-levels;
1. G-Limited with a naturally aspirated engine (N/A) 2.0L 3S-GE engine producing 165PS (163hp/121 kW), an automatic transmission was standard, a manual transmission was optional. The G-Limited has basically all the bells and whistles an MR2 can have. Climate control, Power folding Mirrors, Steerable Fog Lamps, etc.
2. GT with a turbocharged 2.0L 3S-GTE engine producing (261 hp/), a M/T was the only choice.
3. GT-S, it came with the same engine and transmission as the GT.
The European market also received three trim-levels;
1. Coupe with the N/A 2.0L 3S-FE engine producing 138 hp (103 kW).
2. GT Coupe with the N/A 2.0L 3S-GE engine producing 158 hp (118 kW).
3. GT T-Bar with the N/A 2.0L 3S-GE engine producing 158 hp (118 kW).
There were no turbo models officially imported to the European market, however many Japanese models were imported via the grey market. The U.S. did not get an MR2 for the 1990 model year. In 1991 Toyota introduced the MKII MR2 to the U.S. in two trim-levels;
1. MR2 N/A with a N/A 2.2L 5S-FE engine producing 130 hp (up to 135 hp (101 kW) in 1993) and an A/T or M/T optional.
2. MR2 Turbo with a turbocharged 2.0L 3S-GTE engine producing 200 hp (149 kW), the only choice for a transmission being a 5-speed M/T.
There are many visual differences between the MR2 N/A and MR2 Turbo models which are much more noticiable to the owner of an MR2 Turbo: some include the “turbo” emblem (USDM) on the rear trunk, a fiberglass engine bonnet with “raised” vents, fog lights (some JDM and EU N/A models came with fog lights), and an added interior center storage compartment located between the two seats. All MKII’s came with a staggered wheel setup, which was slightly wider in the rear. In the U.S. there are two different chassis codes, SW21 for the MR2 N/A model and SW22 for the MR2 Turbo model, as opposed to the usual SW20 reference.
Mechanical differences between the NA and Turbo models include, but are not limited to: Turbo model received the more powerful 3S-GTE engine with its associated intercooler and different exhaust system, a more powerful fuel pump, larger brakes, a larger radiator, larger rear axles which also required different hubs, and a different transmission (E153) vs the NA S54 transmission.
The MKII MR2 was offered with three different engine choices all together depending on the market area. All engines were 2.0 liter I4 engines with DOHC and 16 valves, except for the US MR2 N/A model which used the 2.2 liter 5S-FE engine. The most powerful engine was the turbocharged 3S-GTE, which was rated at 261 hp) JDM (as the MR2 GT and 240 hp (179 kW) as the GT-S) and 200 hp (150kW) USDM (as the MR2 Turbo). Europeans had to settle for the naturally-aspirated 156 horsepower (116 kW) 3S-GE engine (in the Coupe) or the 118 horsepower (88 kW) 3S-FE engine (in the GT coupe and GT T-bar). The JDM MR2's (GT and GT-S model) had the 3S-GTE engine that produced (261 hp) and was able to accelerate from 0-100 km/h in 5.6 s. The USDM MR2 Turbo model was able to accelerate from 0-60 in 6.1 seconds and run the 1/4 mile in 14.7 seconds. The 3S-GTE was also used in the Celica Celica All-Trac/GT4
In early 1992 (for the 1993 models), Toyota changed the rear suspension geometry for both the NA and Turbo models. The rear toe rods (that control the toe-in of the rear tires) were lengthened substantially, and the inner pivot point for the toe rod was relocated on the cross-member. At the front, the geometry did not change but the construction of the attachment of the front control arms were changed. Springs that lowered the ride height at both the front and rear were installed, and the anti-roll or sway bars were increased in diameter (Turbo model only?). The wheels were changed from 14" diameter to a 5 spoke cast aluminum 15" diameter wheel. The increase in size was mainly to accommodate larger brakes on the Turbo model. The tire sizes were also increased in width at both the front and rear on both the NA and Turbo models. These changes to the suspension geometry and tire sizes were made in response to journalist reports in their reviews of the MR2 that the car would "snap-oversteer". As a counterpoint to the snap-oversteer phenomenon of the MR2, other journalists point out that most mid-engine and rear engine sports and super cars exhibit similar behaviour, and that a change to the driver's response to oversteer is really the problem, and not the fault of the car. Nevertheless, Toyota elected to change the MR2 suspension and tires so that the car became more docile and "neutral" in its over- and under- steer characteristics. Other refinements in 1993 are a slightly revised electrical system (for example, the speedometer became fully electronic vs. the earlier cable drive version), and a shorter shifter lever and smaller shifter knob. For the 3S-GTE minor mechanical changes were made, but power did not change. The boost engine cut sensor was changed to allow for a maximum boost of 17-18 psi, vs the earlier switch that shut down the engine at over 12 psi boost. The engine computer did not allow more than 12 psi boost, so the change in the boost cut switch is only of interest to aftermarket tuners. The 1993 model year also offered a Limited Slip Differential (viscous type, with 40% lockup) as an option on Turbo models only. The transmission was changed internally with additional synchromeshes on the lower gears which allows for smoother shifting, again on Turbo models. Externally, the front lip was changed to a new shape that increased downforce at the front. The external mirrors were color keyed as well.
The next big change occurred in late 1993, for the 1994 model year, receiving some small engine and suspension upgrades for each model. A slightly smaller CT20b turbocharger replaced the CT26 unit (JDM models only, the USA models retained the CT-26). All MR2's received new round tail lights and a color-coded center panel replaced the old square shaped tail lights and the "honey-comb" center panel. The original three-piece rear spoiler was replaced with the one-piece spoiler which attached only to the trunk lid. The side molding and skirts were also color coded, and the "dot matrix" edge pattern on the glass was replaced with a solid pattern. The bottom lip on front bumper was also replaced with a slightly bigger piece that although minor, provided an improved front end look to the car. The steering wheel was also replaced with a slightly smaller model, now universally shared across many Toyota models (the "MR2" insignia was replaced with the Toyota symbol). Also a passenger side airbag was added. 1995 was the last year Toyota sold the Mk II in North America.
In 1996, Toyota added turn signals mounted to the front fenders and the front signals were changed to a clear lens instead of amber like the previous years, but no other modifications were made. The 1998 model, known as the "Revision 5" model, came with more modern looking five spoke 17" alloy wheels, an adjustable, more aggressive spoiler then before, and a leather shift knob with red stitching. While the turbocharged 3S-GTE engine remained the same, the JDM naturally aspirated 3S-GE engine was equipped with Toyota's VVT-i system which allowed the timing of the intake camshafts to be modified according to the engine's rotation speed and load.
The SW20 has become a popular collector's car since the 2004 Ultimate Street Car Challenge win of Brad Bedell [5] and his yellow V6 supercharged MR2. The 1MZ-FE motor, that comes from the V6 powered Solara and Camry, has quickly become a popular modification as the expense of switching to the V6 motor is roughly in line with installing a turbocharged motor into a formerly naturally aspirated car.
SW20/SW21) 1994 MK-II Toyota MR2 SW20
Production: 1989-1999
Body style(s): 2-door coupé or T-top
Layout:MR layout
Engine(s):Toyota S engine
2.2L 130 hp (97 kW) I4 (US, UK)
2.0L 165 PS (121 kW; 163 hp) I4 (Japan, Australia, UK)
2.0L 180 PS (130 kW; 180 hp) I4 (Japan, Australia, UK)
2.0L 200 PS (150 kW; 200 hp) I4 (Japan)
2.0L 200 hp (150 kW) Turbocharged I4 (US)
2.0L 225 PS (165 kW; 222 hp) Turbocharged I4 (Japan)
2.0L 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp) Turbocharged I4 (Japan)
Transmission: 4-speed automatic, 5-speed S54 or E153 manual
Wheelbase: 94.5 in (2,400 mm)
Length 164.2 in (4,171 mm)
Width 66.9 in (1,699 mm)
Height 48.6 in (1,234 mm)
Curb weight 2,789 lb (1,265 kg)
Designer Kazutoshi Arima
Tadashi Nakagawa (roadster)
The second generation MR2 (MKII) went through a complete redesign in 1989; the wheelbase had been increased by 3.2 inches (81 mm), making it 94.5 inches, the overall length had been increased by 9.3 inches (240 mm), making it 164.2 inches (4,170 mm) and is 66.9 inches (1,700 mm) wide. The new MR2 weighed 350 to 400 pounds (160 to 180 kg) more than its predecessor and had smoother bodylines. It appeared very advanced for its era. Now that the MR2 was larger, it could be classed as a GT car. The 1990 model year MSRP ranged from approximately ¥1,953,330 (€13,896), ($14,368) to ¥2,522,960 (€17,882), ($18,558). Since the resemblance between the Ferrari 348tb and the Ferrari F355 and the new MR2 was quite striking, the MKII is sometimes referred to as a "poor man's" Ferrari. Indeed, many bodykits became available to make the MKII imitate the Ferrari F355 with, sometimes, almost indistinguishable results.The MKII MR2 came to the Japanese (JDM) and European market at the end of 1989 as a 1990 model year. Japan received three trim-levels;
1. G-Limited with a naturally aspirated engine (N/A) 2.0L 3S-GE engine producing 165PS (163hp/121 kW), an automatic transmission was standard, a manual transmission was optional. The G-Limited has basically all the bells and whistles an MR2 can have. Climate control, Power folding Mirrors, Steerable Fog Lamps, etc.
2. GT with a turbocharged 2.0L 3S-GTE engine producing (261 hp/), a M/T was the only choice.
3. GT-S, it came with the same engine and transmission as the GT.
The European market also received three trim-levels;
1. Coupe with the N/A 2.0L 3S-FE engine producing 138 hp (103 kW).
2. GT Coupe with the N/A 2.0L 3S-GE engine producing 158 hp (118 kW).
3. GT T-Bar with the N/A 2.0L 3S-GE engine producing 158 hp (118 kW).
There were no turbo models officially imported to the European market, however many Japanese models were imported via the grey market. The U.S. did not get an MR2 for the 1990 model year. In 1991 Toyota introduced the MKII MR2 to the U.S. in two trim-levels;1. MR2 N/A with a N/A 2.2L 5S-FE engine producing 130 hp (up to 135 hp (101 kW) in 1993) and an A/T or M/T optional.
2. MR2 Turbo with a turbocharged 2.0L 3S-GTE engine producing 200 hp (149 kW), the only choice for a transmission being a 5-speed M/T.
There are many visual differences between the MR2 N/A and MR2 Turbo models which are much more noticiable to the owner of an MR2 Turbo: some include the “turbo” emblem (USDM) on the rear trunk, a fiberglass engine bonnet with “raised” vents, fog lights (some JDM and EU N/A models came with fog lights), and an added interior center storage compartment located between the two seats. All MKII’s came with a staggered wheel setup, which was slightly wider in the rear. In the U.S. there are two different chassis codes, SW21 for the MR2 N/A model and SW22 for the MR2 Turbo model, as opposed to the usual SW20 reference.
Mechanical differences between the NA and Turbo models include, but are not limited to: Turbo model received the more powerful 3S-GTE engine with its associated intercooler and different exhaust system, a more powerful fuel pump, larger brakes, a larger radiator, larger rear axles which also required different hubs, and a different transmission (E153) vs the NA S54 transmission.
The MKII MR2 was offered with three different engine choices all together depending on the market area. All engines were 2.0 liter I4 engines with DOHC and 16 valves, except for the US MR2 N/A model which used the 2.2 liter 5S-FE engine. The most powerful engine was the turbocharged 3S-GTE, which was rated at 261 hp) JDM (as the MR2 GT and 240 hp (179 kW) as the GT-S) and 200 hp (150kW) USDM (as the MR2 Turbo). Europeans had to settle for the naturally-aspirated 156 horsepower (116 kW) 3S-GE engine (in the Coupe) or the 118 horsepower (88 kW) 3S-FE engine (in the GT coupe and GT T-bar). The JDM MR2's (GT and GT-S model) had the 3S-GTE engine that produced (261 hp) and was able to accelerate from 0-100 km/h in 5.6 s. The USDM MR2 Turbo model was able to accelerate from 0-60 in 6.1 seconds and run the 1/4 mile in 14.7 seconds. The 3S-GTE was also used in the Celica Celica All-Trac/GT4
In early 1992 (for the 1993 models), Toyota changed the rear suspension geometry for both the NA and Turbo models. The rear toe rods (that control the toe-in of the rear tires) were lengthened substantially, and the inner pivot point for the toe rod was relocated on the cross-member. At the front, the geometry did not change but the construction of the attachment of the front control arms were changed. Springs that lowered the ride height at both the front and rear were installed, and the anti-roll or sway bars were increased in diameter (Turbo model only?). The wheels were changed from 14" diameter to a 5 spoke cast aluminum 15" diameter wheel. The increase in size was mainly to accommodate larger brakes on the Turbo model. The tire sizes were also increased in width at both the front and rear on both the NA and Turbo models. These changes to the suspension geometry and tire sizes were made in response to journalist reports in their reviews of the MR2 that the car would "snap-oversteer". As a counterpoint to the snap-oversteer phenomenon of the MR2, other journalists point out that most mid-engine and rear engine sports and super cars exhibit similar behaviour, and that a change to the driver's response to oversteer is really the problem, and not the fault of the car. Nevertheless, Toyota elected to change the MR2 suspension and tires so that the car became more docile and "neutral" in its over- and under- steer characteristics. Other refinements in 1993 are a slightly revised electrical system (for example, the speedometer became fully electronic vs. the earlier cable drive version), and a shorter shifter lever and smaller shifter knob. For the 3S-GTE minor mechanical changes were made, but power did not change. The boost engine cut sensor was changed to allow for a maximum boost of 17-18 psi, vs the earlier switch that shut down the engine at over 12 psi boost. The engine computer did not allow more than 12 psi boost, so the change in the boost cut switch is only of interest to aftermarket tuners. The 1993 model year also offered a Limited Slip Differential (viscous type, with 40% lockup) as an option on Turbo models only. The transmission was changed internally with additional synchromeshes on the lower gears which allows for smoother shifting, again on Turbo models. Externally, the front lip was changed to a new shape that increased downforce at the front. The external mirrors were color keyed as well.The next big change occurred in late 1993, for the 1994 model year, receiving some small engine and suspension upgrades for each model. A slightly smaller CT20b turbocharger replaced the CT26 unit (JDM models only, the USA models retained the CT-26). All MR2's received new round tail lights and a color-coded center panel replaced the old square shaped tail lights and the "honey-comb" center panel. The original three-piece rear spoiler was replaced with the one-piece spoiler which attached only to the trunk lid. The side molding and skirts were also color coded, and the "dot matrix" edge pattern on the glass was replaced with a solid pattern. The bottom lip on front bumper was also replaced with a slightly bigger piece that although minor, provided an improved front end look to the car. The steering wheel was also replaced with a slightly smaller model, now universally shared across many Toyota models (the "MR2" insignia was replaced with the Toyota symbol). Also a passenger side airbag was added. 1995 was the last year Toyota sold the Mk II in North America.
In 1996, Toyota added turn signals mounted to the front fenders and the front signals were changed to a clear lens instead of amber like the previous years, but no other modifications were made. The 1998 model, known as the "Revision 5" model, came with more modern looking five spoke 17" alloy wheels, an adjustable, more aggressive spoiler then before, and a leather shift knob with red stitching. While the turbocharged 3S-GTE engine remained the same, the JDM naturally aspirated 3S-GE engine was equipped with Toyota's VVT-i system which allowed the timing of the intake camshafts to be modified according to the engine's rotation speed and load.
The SW20 has become a popular collector's car since the 2004 Ultimate Street Car Challenge win of Brad Bedell [5] and his yellow V6 supercharged MR2. The 1MZ-FE motor, that comes from the V6 powered Solara and Camry, has quickly become a popular modification as the expense of switching to the V6 motor is roughly in line with installing a turbocharged motor into a formerly naturally aspirated car.
Toyota Alphard Hybrid
Source by: http://www.hybrid-vehicles.net/toyota-alphard-hybrid-minivan.htm
The Toyota Alphard Hybrid Minivan is the sixth hybrid vehicle offered by Toyota (rolled out in 2003) and only in the Japanese market at this time.
The Toyota Alphard Hybrid Minivan sports the Toyota Hybrid System-CVT (or THS-C as they like to call it) including a 2.4-litre gasoline engine, front and rear electric motors, a continuously variable transmission (CVT), high-output hybrid battery pack and an E-Four electric four-wheel drive system.
According to Toyota, "The E-Four electric 4WD system provides better driving performance by using power from the rear-wheel drive motor to optimize electric power distribution to all four wheels according to driving conditions. It provides additional drive power when needed, such as when accelerating from a standing start or on slippery surfaces."
Packages Available
Water Hybrid Car Technology
Boost mileage 30% - 60%, reduce emissions, greenhouse gases and global warming.
Hydrogen on Demand Kit
Use this kit to convert your car to burn hydrogen and save gasoline & the environment.
Electric Car Conversion Plans
Stick It to the Oil Companies and Convert Your Car to an EV, Quickly, Easily and Cheaply.
Toyota goes on to say the it's the "E-Four electric 4WD system that regulates a rear-mounted, rear-wheel-propelling electric motor and coordinates electric power distribution to all four wheels. An ECB (Electrically Controlled Brake system) provides efficient wheel-by-wheel brake control."The full-size Alphard Hybrid Minivan qualifies as an Ultra-Low Emissions Vehicle (ULEV), achieving levels 75-percent lower emissions than the Japanese government's 2000 benchmark. The 2.4-litre gasoline engine has been developed specifically for use in Toyota's hybrid systems and features a high-expansion ratio cycle that raises efficiency and reduces friction.
The Alphard Hybrid uses "by-wire" technology, that monitors brake pedal pressure and vehicle speed in order to calculate the optimum hydraulic pressure. By-wire works with the E-Four to maximize the collection of kinetic energy from braking for conversion into electric power.
The Alphard Hybrid Minivan can generate up to 1,500 watts and is equipped with standard 100-volt AC power outlets, allowing a wide range of appliances to be used, such as laptops and emergency lights. The electrical outlets can also be used to recharge items such as power-assisted bicycles and electric carts, adding a new dimension to leisure activities.
The Alphard Hybrid also offers some advanced safety features not seen on other hybrids. In fact, standard on the "G edition" and optional on standard grades are ( with a G-BOOK compatible DVD voice navigation system):
1. Blind Corner Monitor, which indicates the approach of other vehicles or pedestrians from the left and right
2. Back Guide Monitor with a color CCD camera and voice-guidance function, which uses signals from a steering sensor to calculate the likely reverse path during reversing and display it on the monitor screen
3. Lane-monitoring system that uses images from the Back Guide Monitor camera to measure the lateral distance to white or yellow lines on major highways and triggers an alarm when the distance falls below a pre-set level
4. Radar Cruise Control, which uses laser radar sensors and steering sensors to keep track of the vehicle's lane and any preceding vehicle and ensures that a safe distance is maintained in accordance with vehicle speed
In addition, optional on all grades is a built-in electronic toll collection unit that allows for quick tollgate pass-through (only available with a navigation system).
The Alphard Hybrid achieves approximately 42 mpg and boasts an insulated body and newly developed two-way compressor that is incorporated in the motor to optimize the use of the air conditioner, conserving fuel. The Alphard Hybrid's specially developed windshield glass also reduces the amount of solar radiation penetration. In addition, the roof and roof panels contain an insulating material to reduce cabin temperature, which helps conserve energy when the air conditioner is operating.
While only available in Japan, the Toyota Alphard Hybrid Minivan is worth checking out for those traveling to this location. The Alphard's sister vehicle, the Sienna Hybrid will most likely be the first hybrid minivan introduced into the U. S. marketplace though the schedule has not yet been announced. Toyota's smaller hybrid minivan, the Estima Hybrid is also only in Japanese markets and will likely not be rolled out to the larger marketplace anytime soon.
Stabilizing Bar Facts
Source by: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question432.htm
Stabilizer bars are part of a car's suspension system. They are sometimes also called anti-sway bars or anti-roll bars. Their purpose in life is to try to keep the car's body from "rolling" in a sharp turn.
Think about what happens to a car in a sharp turn. If you are inside the car, you know that your body gets pulled toward the outside of the turn. The same thing is happening to all the parts of the car. So the part of the car on the outside of the turn gets pushed down toward the road and the part of the car on the inside of the turn rises up. In other words, the body of the car "rolls" 10 or 20 or 30 degrees toward the outside of the turn. If you take a turn fast enough, the tires on the inside of the turn actually rise off the road and the car flips over.
Roll is bad. It tends to put more weight on the outside tires and less weigh on the inside tires, reducing traction. It also messes up steering. What you would like is for the body of the car to remain flat through a turn so that the weight stays distributed evenly on all four tires.
A stabilizer bar tries to keep the car's body flat by moving force from one side of the body to another. To picture how a stabilizer bar works, imagine a metal rod that is an inch or two (2 to 5 cm) in diameter. If your front tires are 5 feet (1.6 meters) apart, make the rod about 4 feet long. Attach the rod to the frame of the car in front of the front tires, but attach it with bushings in such a way that it can rotate. Now attach arms from the rod to the front suspension member on both sides.
When you go into a turn now, the front suspension member of the outside of the turn gets pushed upward. The arm of the sway bar gets pushed upward, and this applies torsion to the rod. The torsion them moves the arm at the other end of the rod, and this causes the suspension on the other side of the car to compress as well. The car's body tends to stay flat in the turn.
If you don't have a stabilizer bar, you tend to have a lot of trouble with body roll in a turn. If you have too much stabilizer bar, you tend to lose independence between the suspension members on both sides of the car. When one wheel hits a bump, the stabilizer bar transmits the bump to the other side of the car as well, which is not what you want. The ideal is to find a setting that reduces body roll but does not hurt the independence of the tires.
Below are the Ctech Stabilizing bars.
2 Point Front Strut Bar
2 Point Rear Strut Bar
3 Point Fender Bar
3 Point Front strut bar
3 Point Rear Strut Bar
4 Point Front Lower Strut Bar
4 Point Middle Lower Strut Bar
4 Point Rear Strut Bar
Rear Upper Bar
Room Bar
Stabilizer bars are part of a car's suspension system. They are sometimes also called anti-sway bars or anti-roll bars. Their purpose in life is to try to keep the car's body from "rolling" in a sharp turn.
Think about what happens to a car in a sharp turn. If you are inside the car, you know that your body gets pulled toward the outside of the turn. The same thing is happening to all the parts of the car. So the part of the car on the outside of the turn gets pushed down toward the road and the part of the car on the inside of the turn rises up. In other words, the body of the car "rolls" 10 or 20 or 30 degrees toward the outside of the turn. If you take a turn fast enough, the tires on the inside of the turn actually rise off the road and the car flips over.
Roll is bad. It tends to put more weight on the outside tires and less weigh on the inside tires, reducing traction. It also messes up steering. What you would like is for the body of the car to remain flat through a turn so that the weight stays distributed evenly on all four tires.
A stabilizer bar tries to keep the car's body flat by moving force from one side of the body to another. To picture how a stabilizer bar works, imagine a metal rod that is an inch or two (2 to 5 cm) in diameter. If your front tires are 5 feet (1.6 meters) apart, make the rod about 4 feet long. Attach the rod to the frame of the car in front of the front tires, but attach it with bushings in such a way that it can rotate. Now attach arms from the rod to the front suspension member on both sides.
When you go into a turn now, the front suspension member of the outside of the turn gets pushed upward. The arm of the sway bar gets pushed upward, and this applies torsion to the rod. The torsion them moves the arm at the other end of the rod, and this causes the suspension on the other side of the car to compress as well. The car's body tends to stay flat in the turn.
If you don't have a stabilizer bar, you tend to have a lot of trouble with body roll in a turn. If you have too much stabilizer bar, you tend to lose independence between the suspension members on both sides of the car. When one wheel hits a bump, the stabilizer bar transmits the bump to the other side of the car as well, which is not what you want. The ideal is to find a setting that reduces body roll but does not hurt the independence of the tires.
Below are the Ctech Stabilizing bars.
2 Point Front Strut Bar
2 Point Rear Strut Bar
3 Point Fender Bar
3 Point Front strut bar
3 Point Rear Strut Bar
4 Point Front Lower Strut Bar
4 Point Middle Lower Strut Bar
4 Point Rear Strut Bar
Rear Upper Bar
Room Bar
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